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Hi, Darlings. I have been holding on to this cream denim twill for a while. It is such a great weight and the ideal fabric to sew denim perfectly every time. It presses like a dream and has a great drape. I ordered the fabric from Blackbird Fabrics; they also have this lived-in cotton twill in several colors. FREEBIE BONUS: I have added the tshirt I am wearing as freebie pdf for you! Its the perfect fitting T-shirt. Enjoy! Get FREEBIE PDF PATTERN HERE THE PATTERN This pattern is one of our exclusive Sew It Academy patterns; our jeans pattern is perfect and can be made from several mid-weight to heavy-weight fabrics. We also have a stand-alone course on learning how to perfectly sew denim jeans with tons of tips and tricks. The step-by-step video lessons are accompanied by a printable handout and the PDF pattern in print at home, copy shop, and projector files. You can sign up for that course HERE TIPS FOR PERFECTLY SEWING DENIM Denim is a beloved fabric for sewists everywhere. Whether crafting jeans, jackets, or stylish bags, denim projects can be incredibly satisfying. Yet, sewing denim also presents its own set of challenges. But don't worry, fabric enthusiasts! In this guide, we're revealing five must-know hacks to enhance your denim sewing skills. Grab your sewing machine, and let’s dive into the vibrant world of denim mastery! 1. Choose the Right Needle Choosing the correct needle is vital when working with denim. Standard sewing needles may struggle with the thickness and resilience of this fabric. Instead, reach for a denim needle designed to cut through multiple layers precisely. For medium—to heavy-weight denim, a needle sized 90/14 or 100/16 is your best bet. These needles reduce the risk of skipped stitches, providing a smooth sewing journey. Keeping your needle sharp is equally important. A worn needle can lead to snags and uneven stitches. Aim to replace your needle every few garments or sooner if you notice any issues—you'll appreciate the difference it makes! 2. Invest in Quality Thread Quality thread is essential to your denim projects' final look and durability. Opt for high-quality polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread . These threads are strong and resistant to fraying, making them ideal for bulky seam areas. Consider selecting a top-stitching thread in a contrasting color to make your seams pop. This adds style and reinforces the seams, enhancing their durability. For instance, a bright orange or white thread can make a bold statement if you're using dark denim. Buying thread in bulk can also save you time and money. Denim projects often require significant thread; running out mid-seam can interrupt your creative flow. Stocking up can make your denim journey smoother! 3. Prewash Your Denim There’s nothing worse than finishing a beautiful denim creation only to find it shrunk or warped after the first wash. To avoid this, always prewash your denim before you start sewing. To maintain the fabric's integrity, use cold water on a gentle cycle. To prevent fading, dry on a low heat setting or hang the fabric to dry. Prewashing helps prevent shrinkage and cleans off chemicals or finishes lingering on the fabric. Moreover, it lets you see how the denim behaves, ensuring you're well-prepared for your project! 4. Use Proper Tools Equipping yourself with the right tools can significantly improve your sewing experience. Consider incorporating a walking foot into your toolkit. This helpful attachment reduces fabric slipping, which is especially critical when working with thick seams. Make sure to have quality fabric scissors and rotary cutters for precise cutting. A clean cut can simplify the sewing process tremendously. Also, switch to fabric clips instead of regular pins when working with denim. Standard pins can warp thicker materials, but fabric clips hold layers securely without shifting. This small change can yield more accurate sewing results, especially with voluminous denim patches. 5. Experiment with Stitch Settings Denim requires a tailored approach to stitching. One size does not fit all! Adjusting your stitch settings can yield the best results for every unique project. Consider using a zig-zag stitch or a longer straight stitch on seams for optimum strength and flexibility. Also, play around with different stitch lengths. A longer stitch length looks good on denim and helps prevent puckering — a common challenge with this sturdy fabric. Test your stitch settings on fabric scraps to see what works best for your project. Treat sewing denim as a creative process — each project allows you to develop your unique style. So unleash your inner denim master and create something beautiful! Every stitch is a chance to express yourself, and with these hacks, you’ll handle denim with confidence and flair. Happy sewing! xoxo

Hi, Darlings! This is one of the most popular PDF patterns and every year I give it away! THE ANNIE CARDIGAN is the perfect easy cardigan for transitioning from Summer to Fall. I have made it so many times and I love it! Now you can make it too! and I have a full step-by-step video sewing tutorial to help ypu along which you can find HERE FREEBIE ANNIE CARDIGAN PDF PATTERN To get the freebie pattern click HERE and join my newsletter! Love you guys! Have a great weekend xoxo, Mimi G

Hi, Darlings! I recently made another version of our Sew It Academy Utility Jacket. I used a really great denim from Spoonflower, but when it arrived, it was incredibly stiff! I washed it several times and dried it, which helped a bit. I still needed a bit of the stiffness to keep the structure of the jacket, so I didn't mind it much, but I got curious as to what methods I could use to soften denim in the event I ordered again. I thought I would share some Tips For Softening Stiff Denim. Look at my jacket; I love this pattern so much. It was our December course, so if you are a student log in and get started. If you'd like to learn to sew in a fun and non-frustrating way or want access to our monthly patterns join at sewitacademy.com Tips For Softening Stiff Denim: A Step-by-Step Guide Stiff denim can feel uncomfortable and frustrating to work with, whether you’re sewing a new pair of jeans, upcycling an old jacket, or tackling any other denim project. Luckily, there are several tried-and-true methods to soften denim fabrics, making them more enjoyable to wear and easier to handle. Here are some effective techniques to soften stiff denim, along with step-by-step instructions to help you achieve that perfectly soft feel. Why Is Denim Stiff? Denim is a durable cotton fabric woven in a twill pattern, often treated with heavy finishes during manufacturing. These treatments can leave the fabric feeling rigid and unyielding. Softening denim not only improves comfort but also enhances the drape and workability of the fabric for sewing projects. Techniques to Soften Denim 1. Wash with Vinegar Vinegar is a natural fabric softener that helps break down stiff finishes in denim. What You Need: - 1 cup of white distilled vinegar - Washing machine - Mild detergent Steps: 1. Place your denim garment or fabric in the washing machine. 2. Add 1 cup of white distilled vinegar to the machine during the rinse cycle. 3. Use a mild detergent during the wash cycle. 4. Allow the denim to air dry or tumble dry on low heat for a softer feel. *Pro Tip:* If you’re pre-washing denim for sewing, avoid using fabric softeners as they can leave residues that might interfere with your sewing process. 2. Use Baking Soda Baking soda is another natural option to soften denim by reducing stiffness and neutralizing odors. What You Need: - ½ cup of baking soda - Washing machine Steps: 1. Sprinkle ½ cup of baking soda directly into the washing machine drum. 2. Wash the denim on a regular cycle with cool or warm water. 3. Air dry the fabric or tumble dry on low heat. *Pro Tip:* Repeat this process for especially stiff denim to achieve your desired softness. 3. Break It In For pre-made garments, wearing and washing your denim frequently can naturally soften the fabric over time. Steps: 1. Wear the denim garment as often as possible to allow natural movement to loosen the fibers. 2. Wash the item after every few wears, following the care instructions for the fabric. 3. Over time, your denim will soften and mold to your body. 4. Salt Soak Method A salt soak is a traditional technique for softening stiff fabrics, including denim. What You Need: - 1 cup of salt - Large basin or bathtub - Warm water Steps: 1. Fill a basin or bathtub with enough warm water to fully submerge the denim. 2. Add 1 cup of salt and stir to dissolve. 3. Place the denim in the water and let it soak for 4-6 hours (overnight for best results). 4. Rinse the denim thoroughly with clean water. 5. Air dry or tumble dry on low heat. 5. Use a Fabric Softener or Conditioner Liquid fabric softener or even hair conditioner can help break in denim and add softness. What You Need: - Fabric softener or hair conditioner - Washing machine - Dryer with dryer balls (optional) Steps: 1. Add fabric softener or diluted hair conditioner to the washing machine during the rinse cycle. 2. Wash the denim with a mild detergent. 3. Dry the denim with dryer balls, which help soften the fabric further by breaking up stiffness during the drying process. *Pro Tip:* If you use hair conditioner, dilute it with water first to avoid residue buildup on the fabric. Additional Tips for Sewing Stiff Denim Pre-wash the fabric: Always pre-wash denim before cutting and sewing to reduce shrinkage and stiffness. Use the right needles: Denim needles are designed to handle heavy fabrics without breaking or skipping stitches. Consider steam pressing: Use a hot iron with steam to help relax the fibers further after washing and drying. Final Thoughts Softening denim is an easy process that can greatly improve the feel and versatility of your fabric. Whether you prefer natural methods like vinegar and baking soda or mechanical options like dryer balls, these techniques will ensure your denim is soft and ready for wearing or sewing. Experiment with these methods to find what works best for your project, and enjoy the comfort of perfectly softened denim! Thanks so much for reading!

Hey darlings! I am beyond excited to share My Latest Make: A Tweed DIY Jacket – a fabulous DIY tweed jacket. It's stylish, cozy, and just the right mix of classic and modern. Plus, it's made using one of our exclusive patterns from Sew It Academy , my online sewing and design membership. Each month, we release a brand-new pattern and course to help you expand your sewing skills—and last month's tweed jacket is a total showstopper! Let me tell you, there's something so satisfying about working with tweed. The texture, the warmth, and the timeless appeal make it one of those fabrics that elevate any handmade piece. This jacket came together beautifully, and I’m already planning my next one in a different color palette. But before I get ahead of myself, let’s talk about what makes this jacket and sewing with tweed so special. Why I Love This Tweed Jacket Pattern My Latest Make: A Tweed DIY Jacket, This pattern is a dream for sewists who want to level up their outerwear game. It’s designed with beginner sewists in mind but still has enough interesting details to keep advanced sewists engaged. Think clean lines, a flattering fit, and customizable options to make it truly your own. The jacket features classic tailoring elements, and the course walks you through every step—from cutting your fabric to sewing those tricky collar bands. The best part? Tweed is the perfect fabric for this pattern. It gives the jacket a high-end, ready-to-wear vibe while keeping you warm and stylish. And trust me, you’ll feel like a total boss strutting around in your handmade creation! 4 Tips for Sewing with Tweed Working with tweed can feel a little intimidating at first, but don’t worry—I’ve got your back. Here are my top tips for handling this gorgeous fabric: Prep Your Fabric Tweed tends to fray easily, so be sure to finish your raw edges right away. You can use a serger, pinking shears, or even a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. Also, give your fabric a good steam before cutting to relax the fibers and avoid surprises down the line. Choose the Right Needle and Thread A sharp or universal needle in size 80/12 or 90/14 works well with tweed. Pair it with a high-quality all-purpose thread to ensure smooth stitching. If your tweed is extra thick, consider a denim needle for added strength. Stay Accurate with Interfacing Interfacing is key to giving your jacket structure, especially around the collar and lapels. Use a fusible interfacing that matches the weight of your tweed, and test it on a scrap piece first to make sure it adheres properly. Take It Slow Tweed’s texture can make it a bit tricky to sew, especially on curved seams. Go slow, use plenty of pins or clips, and don’t be afraid to baste tricky sections first. A walking foot can also be a lifesaver to keep layers from shifting. Join the Fun at Sew It Academy If you’re itching to try your hand at this tweed jacket or want to tackle other amazing sewing projects, come join us at Sew It Academy ! Every month, we bring you a fresh pattern and step-by-step video lessons that will take your sewing skills to the next level. Whether you’re a total beginner or looking to master advanced techniques, there’s something for everyone. Ready to make your own tweed jacket and show it off? I can’t wait to see your creations. Don’t forget to share them with me on social media using the hashtag #SewItAcademy. Let’s keep inspiring each other and sewing up a storm! Happy stitching! ✨ Mimi G

Hi Darlings! Ponte knit is a dream fabric for creating structured yet comfortable garments. Recently, I made a stunning red Ponte knit dress, and the process inspired me to share some tips for working with this versatile fabric. Whether you're new to sewing knits or looking to refine your skills, these tips will help you achieve professional-looking results. I made this dress when the pattern first released many years ago and when I came across a picture of me wearing I went looking for the pattern, I couldnt find it, so I searched Etsy for a copy. It is out of print now but I was lucky to find one. Below are some tips for sewing my red Vogue #8787 dress. I also shared a reel on Instagram yesterday. Tips for Sewing My Red Vogue #8787 Dress Tip 1: Choose the Right Needle and Thread Ponte knit is a stable, medium-weight knit fabric, but it’s still essential to use the correct needle and thread. A ballpoint or stretch needle is your best choice as it glides between the fabric fibers rather than piercing them, preventing snags or runs. Pair this with polyester thread, which has the right amount of stretch and durability to complement the fabric. Tip 2: Test Your Stitch Settings Before diving into your project, test your machine settings on a scrap of Ponte knit. A narrow zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch works best for seams that will stretch around the body, as these allow the fabric to stretch without popping stitches. Adjust your stitch length and tension to ensure smooth, even stitching without puckering. Mettler also has a stretch thread called SERAFLEX  that I have heard great things about. I have yet to try it but I do plan on using it soon. Tip 3: Stabilize Where Needed Ponte knit holds its shape well, but areas like necklines, shoulders, and hems can benefit from stabilization to prevent stretching over time. Use clear elastic, stay tape, or fusible knit weft interfacing to reinforce these areas. For hems, a twin needle can create a polished, professional finish. Tip 4: Handle with Care During Cutting Ponte knit’s thickness and stability make it easier to cut than lighter knits, but precision is still key. Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter to achieve clean edges. Pin or use pattern weights to hold your fabric securely in place, and avoid stretching it as you cut to maintain the shape of your pattern pieces. The red Ponte knit dress I made is now one of my wardrobe favorites, and I hope these tips inspire you to try your hand at this fantastic fabric. If you’ve worked with Ponte knit before, I’d love to hear your tips or see your projects—feel free to share in the comments below! In case you are wondering, my shoes are from Jessica Simpson and you can find them HERE . Thanks for reading! xoxo Mimi G

Hi, Darlings! I just posted a step-by-step video on how to make my freebie ruffle tote tutorial, and I am so excited for you to have it. This is the cutest tote ever; I tried keeping it, but when my oldest daughter saw it, she asked for it. It's a good thing I can make another! PDF DOWNLOAD FOR MEASUREMENTS: FREEBIE RUFFLE TOTE TUTORIAL Here is a link to the PDF that includes tools, supplies, and measurements for the pieces needed to make this pouch. CLICK HERE! The link to watch the tutorial is below. Watch the step-by-step video on my YOUTUBE CHANNEL , and tag me on Instagram to see all your amazing makes! These make great last-minute gifts, so grab your scraps and start sewing. xoxo Mimi G

Hi, Darlings! I have a few holiday gatherings to attend this month, so I made one of my go-to patterns, Burda #6446. This sexy little me-made holiday dress is a quick sew and looks amazing. I used beautiful deadstock fabric from Blackbird Fabrics for this make, and it did not disappoint. I have made this dress before HERE but did the long version. The front twist looks complicated, but it's not. I love this dress because it has minimal pattern pieces, is easy to sew, and fits well. My Sexy Little Me Made Holiday Dress Thanks for visiting! xx Mimi G

Hi, Darlings! I just posted a step-by-step video on how to make my freebie zipper pouch tutorial, and I am so excited for you to have it. These little zipper pouches can be made in any size to accommodate makeup, knitting or sewing tools, travel accessories, your laptop, and so much more. PDF DOWNLOAD FOR MEASUREMENTS Here is a link to the PDF that includes tools, supplies, and measurements for the pieces needed to make this pouch. CLICK HERE! The link to watch the tutorial is below. Watch the step-by-step video on my YOUTUBE CHANNEL , and tag me on Instagram to see all your amazing makes! These make great last-minute gifts, so grab your scraps and start sewing. xoxo Mimi G

Hi, Darlings! I recently decided to make my favorite knit set to sew from my Simplicity #3010 knit set because I had about 3.5 yards of this great fleece back stretch sweatshirt knit, and it was the perfect match for this pattern. I love being cozy and warm but still looking put together when out and about, and this three-piece pattern is perfection. I changed the cardigan by cropping it and cutting it larger for an oversized fit. The skirt and tank are made as is. You can shop this pattern and all my patterns, including PDFs, on simplicity.com Thanks for reading, you guys! Let me know if you have made this set yet. xx Mimi G

Hi Darlings! I am so excited about this perfect knit dress for the holidays. I knew when Simplicity.com released this Vogue #2064 pattern that I was making it. I love a good turtleneck dress and the long sleeves with the thumb holes are just too cozy to resist. The flow of the dress at the hem is beautiful and lucky for me I had the perfect jersey knit in my stash in this merlot color that I picked up from Joann a few months back. The dress is perfect to wear with heels or boots and great for layering if you wanted with a cute coat or blazer. The pattern itself isnt that difficult which is nice for a Vogue pattern. I did omit the zipper because I knew I would just be able to pull the dress over my head. My fabric is very stretchy and I used a stretch stitch so I could make the turtleneck snug but still get it over my head. Here is a look at the finished dress! Do you plan to make this pattern? If so Brittany did a sew-along on her YouTube channel so make sure to check it out. xoxo Happy Holidays!

I love this dress! I had made it once before, so when I picked up this beautiful print fabric, I knew exactly what pattern I was using. This is Simplicity #9642 . It 's a fun and flirty dress with minimal pieces that sew up quickly. The fabric is an abstract geo print in a viscose twill from Core Fabrics. Here are five no-sweats tips for working with Viscose. Viscose twill is an incredible fabric that blends comfort with elegance, making it ideal for various fashion projects. Yet, its delicate nature can be somewhat challenging for beginners. You're not alone if you've struggled with wrinkles or achieving the perfect drape! Below are five straightforward tips that will equip you to work with viscose twill smoothly and confidently. Let’s jump right in! Understanding Viscose Twill Before diving into practical tips, it’s essential to understand viscose twill. Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber derived from wood pulp. It is Woven into a twill and offers a durable but soft material with a stunning drape. This unique combination makes viscose twill perfect for garments such as skirts, dresses, and slacks, all while providing a luxurious feeling against the skin. By familiarizing yourself with this fabric, you’ll enhance your ability to handle it with the care it deserves! 5 No-Sweat Tips for Working with Viscose Twill 1. Pre-Wash Your Fabric Pre-washing your fabric is critical in sewing, especially with viscose twill. This process pre-shrinks the material and helps remove any chemical finishes that could cause problems later. To pre-wash, toss your fabric into the washing machine on a gentle cycle with mild detergent. Following the wash, hang it to dry or use a low-tumble dry setting. Research shows that about 3-5% of fabrics can shrink during washing, so this step is crucial. Pro Tip: If you’re concerned about wrinkles, iron it quickly on a low heat setting before cutting your patterns. 2. Use the Right Needle Choosing the right needle is vital for a successful sewing experience with viscose twill. A needle that is too thick can snag or damage the fabric, while one that is too fine can struggle with the material's thickness. A universal needle in size 70/10 or 80/12 is ideal for working with viscose twill. These needles are designed to cut through the fabric smoothly without causing harm. Many sewists report fewer fabric issues when using the correct needle size, which can significantly improve their finished product. Pro Tip: Always test your needle choice on a scrap piece of fabric first to see how it interacts with the material! 3. Ironing with Care Ironing viscose twill can be tricky because its delicate fibers can easily burn or become shiny when exposed to high heat. To prevent damage, always use a low heat setting. It’s also helpful to place a thin cloth between the iron and the fabric as an additional barrier, allowing you to smooth out wrinkles effectively. According to industry experts, this simple technique can prevent fabric burns in over 90% of cases. Pro Tip: Use steam sparingly. Too much moisture can stretch the fabric or distort its shape. 4. Seam Techniques Matter When sewing viscose twill, adopting the right seam techniques is crucial. Selecting the correct stitch can save you from frustration down the line. A straight stitch usually works well for most seams. However, incorporating a zig-zag or stretch stitch provides added flexibility, minimizing potential rips during wear. Finishing the edges with a serger or pinking shears is also beneficial, as it can prevent fraying and contribute to a professional finish. Studies indicate that seams that allow a slight stretch can withstand up to 50% more wear. Pro Tip: Use fabric clips instead of pins. Pins can leave marks and create unevenness in delicate materials like viscose. 5. Store Carefully Proper storage of your viscose twill pieces is essential for maintaining their quality. Avoid folding garments in ways that might create permanent creases. Instead, hang them or roll them gently to preserve their shape. If you have leftover fabric, store it in a drawer to reduce exposure to heavy pressure. Research suggests that hanging garments can reduce wrinkling by 60% compared to folding. Pro Tip: If you discover wrinkles upon removing garments from storage, a light spritz of water followed by hanging them can effectively restore their smooth appearance without damage. Wrapping Up Working with viscose twill can be enjoyable and stress-free. By following these five simple tips, you can confidently create beautiful pieces without worrying about wrinkles or damage. Remember to pre-wash, select the right needle, iron carefully, focus on seam techniques, and store your creations responsibly. With these easy-to-follow strategies, you’ll fully embrace this luxurious fabric. Gather your supplies and get ready to sew! Your next favorite project is just around the corner. Happy sewing! xoxo Mimi G

Hi, Darlings! I couldn't wait to publish our latest course in Sew It Academy. I am in my skirt era and loving every minute of it. The pattern has two views: a bubble skirt and a wide-hem skirt. If you are a Sew It student, the course is in your dashboards, so check it out. If you want to learn to sew or want to join for the patterns and monthly classes, you can certainly do that! Check out sewitacademy.com I made the fully lined bubble skirt in off-white cotton and the wide-hem skirt in floral cotton. Two Skirts, One Pattern! Thanks for reading!