Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Pattern Size: Why You End Up With An Oversized Garment




Okay, really quick I need to share this because I see a recurring question/frustration "I have an issue" problem that can easily be addressed for those new to sewing with patterns. 

I get asked why when sewing a pattern folks end up with a huge wadder  o_0

So check to see if this applies to you:

When you go to cut your patterns do you cut according to the size on the BACK of the pattern envelope?
If so there is your error, the Big 4 pattern companies include a LOT of ease into their patterns so I NEVER cut my pattern size according to what is printed on the back of the envelope, I cut according to the "FINISHED MEASUREMENTS' Printed on the PATTERN PIECE. This way I can see exactly how much ease they added and cut according to the FINISHED size closest to my measurements. That way if you have to make fitting adjustments you are not trying to take in 5" of ease after the fact, LOL

Example: On the back of the envelope my measurements fall in the size 8 category but on the printed finished measurement on the pattern piece that size 8 finished is going to be HUGE on me so I may cut the size 6  or take out the added was before cutting my fabric because the FINISHED (key word here) measurements are closer to my measurements. I like my clothes fitted well so I don't need 3" of ease at the bust and I def don't need 5" of ease at my hips, lol

get it?

Would you (newbies) be interested in me doing a video where I walk you through sewing with a pattern,  What the markings mean, how to read the instructions etc.?

xoxo,
mimi g.

91 comments:

  1. Girl!!! Thanks you so much....It has been frustrating taking in all that extra fabic.

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    1. Yes Please. I'm trying to understand, but a video would be perfect!

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  2. ugh... yes!!!!! i have this problem because I'm new to sewing. please do a DIY vid.... Your the #BOMB..

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  3. Yes please, love your blog, love your work thanks

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  4. Yes! That would be very helpful. Thanks!

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  5. While I'm not a new sewer, I am helping teach a co-worker and a video for her to watch at home when I'm not around would be a fabulous.

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  6. Very Interested! Please and thank you. lol I wear a size 2, but the patterns always lead me to a size 10-12 :-/..and I know that ain't right. haha

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    1. Ill explain that in the video, LOL

      xoxo

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  7. So interesting, and I know you are right. I'm not a newbie, but I still end up with garments way too big for me, and sometimes it's not easy taking the un-needed ease just by increasing a couple of seam allowances. I'll be taking your info into consideration, and will try it out on a muslin first. And BTW, not a newbie, but I would still be interested in your videos.

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  8. I'd love a video on pattern cutting. I've only done one piece from a pattern and I'd like to get into doing more. It all seems kind of intimidating and that would be so helpful. Thank you so much!!

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  9. Oh yes please! I am newbie and that video you going to make will be very helpful dear.
    BTW I just finished my 1st sewing and yup i got those problem, the size on the pattern is much bigger than mine. so I just keep trying out to make smaller to fit my body and keep cutting it. LOL
    Please take a look to my first sewing when u get time, i just post on my blog and let me know what do you think?

    xoxo
    Minnie
    http://minnieonfashion.blogspot.com

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  10. YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS! I'm new to pattern sewing (outside of the ones I've made myself, natch), so a video would help a lot. =D

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  11. HELL YEAH!!!! LOL

    Right after you post that maxi skirt tutorial. :-) #SoExcited

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  12. thank you for that information and yes I would love the video! thanks for all your work!

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  13. Would L*VE your video, not a newbie but always open to more knowledge :) I feel like a kid in the candy store when it comes to sewing, LOL!

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  14. yes I would be interested!! thanks so much

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  15. A video on following a pattern would be brilliant!

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  16. I am another who would really appreciate such a video. Very kind of you to offer.
    By the way, I am a huge fan of your blog. You have such great style.

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  17. yes that would be fantabulous!!!!!

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  18. I do the same, check the sizing on the pattern pieces and not what's listed the back of the pattern envelope.
    A video would be great to have as reference for newbies and not-so-newbies :))

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  19. I would love some videos. I've sewn from a few patterns now, and what I'm curious about is an efficient way for transferring all the various pattern markings. Also, going over what type of ease you personally allow to get the great fitting garments we keep seeing from you. Also, a long while back I printed out your extensive measurement chart. How do you use all that information to adjust your patterns? With how much sewing output you produce it doesn't seem as if you make muslins...A pants series would be cool, too. I know this is a long list, and maybe more than you have in mind, but I'm just putting my questions out there.

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    1. Thanks Crystal, I'll make notes, LOL

      xoxo

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  20. And if you do go ahead with a video showing a beginner how to sew from a pattern, I have several friends wanting to learn and I would direct them here.

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  21. Yes please do a video... I've had that issue in the past

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  22. Mimi love your pants!!! Everything always looks good on you! I am not a new sewer, however all tips are helpful!! Thank you so very much for supporting and always "giving back" to your sewing community!!!

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  23. Mimi, I love your pants! Everything always looks good on you! While I am not a new sewer, all tips are very much appreciated! Thank you so very much for always supporting your sewing community! What a great way to keep these new sewers alive with passion! Just watching your work does it for me!!!

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  24. Mimi I would love fi you did a tutorial. Just the basics on what you described in the post because I think the rest comes with trial and error. Great insight!

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  25. Yes, please do a video!!!

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  26. YES, YES.. please do a video... I would love that
    thanks

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  27. Well said! I often end up measuring the pattern pieces and deciding from there which size to go with. The Big 4 really do add loads of ease!

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  28. YESSSSSSSSSSSSS!!! Please yes!! Lol I think if I watched your method I would be able to see where I'm going wrong with cutting my patterns or sewing my seams. Lord, I'm even more happy I ran across your blog on Pattern Review.

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  29. You are so sweet,and down to earth. Thanks for taking the time to address newbie questions and concerns. I would love to see a tutorial on pattern sewing. I LOVED your pencil skirt tutorial.

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  30. That is correct and also remember that most patterns, unless they are specialized, are sized for a A/B bra cup. If you are a full bust, you should use your high bust measurement for the pattern and then do a full bust adjustment. Patti Palmer Pletsch has an excellent video out for that called "Full Busted."

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  31. You are always very gracious and informative and explain things that may be simple but in a manner which is always understandable to new sewers and experienced ones. I am just curious but would you ever think teaching would be in your future, meaning teaching a class? I am sure that between raising a family and working you probably have no time for that but you would probably have large waiting lists. Again thank you for this post it was an eye-opener I am sure to alot of people. Also, would you maybe be able in the future to explain what a full bust ajustment is and how to go about that in terms of ajusting patterns? Just a thought. Thank you.

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    1. I use to teach several years ago but that took so much time away from home which why I started the blog, I figured I could teach online and still make my kids dinner, LOL I am thinking of doing a "conference" type weekend with an intense 3 day workshop etc..

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    2. I've come across some online classes through the form of an e-course. I'd be interested in something like that. People could pay x amount and have access to the videos.

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  32. Can you also give suggestions for those that are smaller in the bottom half, but have bigger boobs..Like I could be around a 10-12ish up top and a medium 8ish on the bottom. Thanks!

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  33. Can you also give suggestions for those that are smaller in the bottom half, but have bigger boobs..Like I could be around a 10-12ish up top and a medium 8ish on the bottom. Thanks!

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  34. Could you also offer suggestions for those who are proportioned different. Like I could be a size 10-12 up top because of my boobs, but an 8sih in the bottom. In the past when I tried to make dresses especially; it fits awful.
    Thanks in advance!

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  35. A resounding YES :)
    I have been following your blog for over a year now, and I love your style.

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  36. Yes OMG, I'm a 2 or 4P and the patterns always have me in the 12 category. WHAT?!? And it's always HUGE...but like the maniacal instruction-follower that I am, I always cut the 12 hoping to get a different result :/ lol...HELP! Thx, G

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  37. That would be great if you could do a video! I am a plus size gal, but I love alot of your tips already. I have read most of your archives and printed out the measurement sheets (Which I need to get on with already!). You give great info and really explain things well. THanks for the help!!!

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  38. Yes please! I am new to sewing and am a size 0, and most of the patterns don't come in that size.

    Thanks,
    Ann

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    1. That's because you're probably a store size 0. I'm a store bought size 0-2 and I actually cut a 6-8. pattern sizing runs a bit different. :)

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    2. I would love a video! I'm a bottom heavy petite lady, and the pattern size on the package always ends up way too big in the shoulder and bust area.

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  39. What I meant to post was....A video would awesome. I am an hour glass plus size so I get frustrated let the "girls" out or taking in the waste and easing the hips so my stuff does not look like a maternity dress :)

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  40. I was wondering what you use for your ease? How much ease do you allow for pants because I like how you wear your pants.

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  41. I'm new to using patterns and it seems in shirts they are really loose in the arms but then SUPER tight in my hips.... BTW I love your clothes you make, their super cute! Any tips on using thin sheer material that frays for a newb? ;p

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    1. Sheer fabric is tricky and requires delicate handling and patience, sew slowly and pin a lot ;-)

      xoxo

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  42. Please do it. I'll be anxiously waiting. I'm just finishing a cute blouse that will be too big, but I'm learning right? I want to sew just like you when I grow up, ops, I have grown up already and I'm far from sewing like you. Lots of work to do. Love your blog.

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  43. Did you ever make video? If not, you should!! It would be amaaazing. You sew incredibly well and your tips/tricks/insight are so helpful!

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  44. Mimi I really need some help in this area.. I have made Vogue 2178 I cut a 14 all the way down.. Bust measures 35 upper bust 33.5, so I guess according to this I should have cut the size 10 Bodice? I understand that, but I need the 14 on the bottom in the waist and sometimes a bit more in the hip. If I were to cut the 10 how would that bodice match up to the skirt portion? It appears to me that it the bodice would be short about an inch in both sides of the bodice. Originally the bodice was huge in the top area where it ties. I also had that issue with OOP McCalls pattern 6323 unfortunately the patter had no finished garment measurement so I cut the 12.. Good lawrd the bust part was huge and the key hole was way too low.. when I put my bra on it was worse? Can you assist?

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Thank you for taking time to comment ;-)

xoxo
mimi g.